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Mal Bien Espadin – Antonio Sonido

Mal Bien Espadin from Antonio Sonido was originally released in the US as part of Agave Mixtape Vol 5.

Rating: (7 reviews)
Category:Destilado de Agave
Brand:Agave Mixtape, Mal Bien Mezcal
Mezcalero:Antonio Sonido
Maguey:Espadin
Agave:Angustifolia
Grind:Shredder
Distillation:Copper
Style:Joven
State:Guerrero
Town:Chilapa
ABV: 47%
Release year: 2021
Website: https://www.mezcalmalbien.com/, opens in new window
About this destilado de agave

Mal Bien Espadin from Antonio Sonido was originally released in the US as part of Agave Mixtape Vol 5. Per Agave Mixtape:

Like some kind of new particle discovered by physicists, Don Antonio’s espadín wasn’t just an interesting new destilado for us to enjoy, but one that made us rethink some of our most basic ideas about espadín as a varietal.

Around the world, most people familiar with mezcal and agave spirits are mainly drinking spirits produced in Oaxaca, so it’s no surprise that most think of espadín (A. angustifolia Haw.) as the most widely available and least expensive varietal. In 2021 Oaxaca, espadín is most definitely both of those. And while this batch is many things – savory, sweet, spiced, rich – it’s most definitely not from Oaxaca.

Don Antonio recalls first encountering espadín in Chilapa de Álvarez in 2008. Unlike papalote (A. cupreata) and zacatoro (a local variant of A. angustifolia) which have been in the region since time immemorial, the espadín seeds or hijuelos had been imported from other states. Adding to the expense, espadín plants prefer to grow on prime, flat land normally reserved for milpa crops as opposed to papalote and zacatoro which do best on hillside plots that don’t work well for corn, beans or squash. While local mezcaleros were impressed by the tales of espadín’s large size, high sugar content, and prolific cloning, the upfront costs were higher than most of Don Antonio’s neighbors were willing to invest, and so espadín developed a reputation as a “luxury” agave.

Generating 20-30 hijuelos de raiz (clones) during their 8-12 year lifespan, it’s certainly possible that the varietal will one day become as common in Guerrero as it is in many other parts of Mexico, however; with less than two generations so far, the species’ overall numbers are still nowhere close to that of papalote. Don Antonio estimates there are a few thousand espadines throughout the region, compared with many millions of papalotes.

Whatever happens with the future of espadín in Chilapa, this batch defies any Oaxaca-centric ideas about espadín. How much are those differences attributable to the terroir of Guerrero VS Oaxaca? How much is the product of a maestro palenquero whose palate was trained on papalote? Did the cost and rarity of the agaves used in this batch earn it special attention that improved the result?

Agave Mixtape

Agave Mixtape brings the best agave spirits together in one place - your place. Agave Mixtape is a subscription based service. Subscribers receive boxes with three 200ml bottles from three different brands - Lalocura, Mal Bien, and Neta (and maybe a few surprises) - filled with batches picked especially for Agave Mixtape, and not available anywhere else in the USA. Each box includes production notes on the batches, along with links to photos, and virtual tastings with the people behind the brands and the mezcaleros. You can subscribe directly from their website.

Mal Bien Mezcal

Since 2016, the Mal Bien team has been traveling Mexico, driving off the map and into mountains filled with treacherous roads, police officers of questionable moral character, feral dogs, indigenous languages, narcos, ancient relics, machete wielding protestors, insect based meals, mudslides, blockades, corrupt politicians, and many of the world's kindest, funniest, most brilliant people. In addition to some hard to believe stories, they've connected with a wide variety of traditional producers, whose mezcal is now bottled and exported under the Mal Bien name.

7 reviews

4.29 out of 5


Jonny

Jonny

523 reviews
Rated 4.5 out of 5 stars2 weeks ago

Big fan! Aromas of apricots, strawberry shortcake, chocolate sauce, fried tofu, and strawberry jam. The palate has a big red velvet / chocolate cake note throughout. It lingers on the finish as well. Additional notes of dried basil, basmati rice, and vanilla cupcakes. This has medium viscosity and is very cake-like in aroma and flavor. Another knock out smash from Guerrero.

WagonTrain

WagonTrain

4 reviews
Rated 3.5 out of 5 stars3 weeks ago

I let this open up in the glass for almost 5 minutes before swishing and sniffing. When I sniffed it, I got a faint alcohol leather polish like scent on the nose. The first swish met me with… wow… this is freaking good… then, heat; a mild – moderate lingering 6.3 heat…

Second sip: almost a light mineral, with some type of faint cucumber softness, followed by less heat (maybe a 5.4), and then a lingering soft sweetness (in a good way) that I can’t describe, along with the heat… My buccal mucosa definitely started to numb here…

Final kiss: a mix of cucumber and very watered down strawberry sweetness and that 5.4 heat again… The heat dissipated quickly with this last one and the sweetness stayed 🙂

Moreover, This Was Fun! I would get a shot of this if I saw it on a menu while eating, kiss it, and re-visit it; however, I would not buy a bottle of it. Yet, I certainly would not discourage anyone else from doing so. This was part of my Mix Tape # 5 three pack. It stands as a solid # 2 between the Neta and LaLocura; with the LaLocura being miles and miles and kilometers ahead (please reference my review, if interested).

Final note: maybe 3-5 minutes after the last kiss, the smoke flavor encompasses my mouth; I am guessing it was always there, but the numbing of my buccal mucosa didn’t allow me to pick up on it.

I let this open up in the glass for almost 5 minutes before swishing and sniffing. When I sniffed it, I got a faint alcohol leather polish like scent on the nose. The first swish met me with… wow… this is freaking good… then, heat; a mild – moderate lingering 6.3 heat…
Second sip: almost a light mineral, with some type of faint cucumber softness, followed by less heat (maybe a 5.4), and then a lingering soft sweetness (in a good way) that I can’t describe, al

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GreenspointTexas

GreenspointTexas

277 reviews
Rated 4 out of 5 stars2 months ago

Buttercream frosting with apricots and herb garden/fresh cut grass finish. A dang good espadin

Rakhal

Rakhal

317 reviews
Rated 5 out of 5 stars2 months ago

I LOVE this!!! I am a long way past the days when I thought Espadin was inferior to other Agaves. In the last couple of years I’ve had so many incredible spirits made from Agave Angustifolia from all over Mexico that I’m always excited to try a new one. This is an incredible Espadin. I’ve never tasted such a chocolate bomb before. To me this is just layers and layers of different chocolate flavors. It’s like gooey chocolate cupcakes topped with chocolate frosting and covered with hot chocolate powder!! Also cinnamon, sawdust, ripe mission figs, and macadamia nuts. I’m so bummed that this bottle is so small!! This and the Mal Bien Zacatoro are my favorite Mezcals of the year so far, these black label Mal Biens are insane. I can’t wait to see what comes next!!!

I LOVE this!!! I am a long way past the days when I thought Espadin was inferior to other Agaves. In the last couple of years I’ve had so many incredible spirits made from Agave Angustifolia from all over Mexico that I’m always excited to try a new one. This is an incredible Espadin. I’ve never tasted such a chocolate bomb before. To me this is just layers and layers of different chocolate flavors. It’s like gooey chocolate cupcakes topped with chocolate frosting and covered with hot cho

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COak

COak

134 reviews
Rated 4.5 out of 5 stars2 months ago

Espadín wise this is elite! I get big flavors of coffee, chocolate, hazelnut and caramel. The best offering of mixtape vol. 5. I would love a big bottle of this.

ElAgave

ElAgave

34 reviews
Rated 4.5 out of 5 stars2 months ago

The green onion / scallion come through heavy on the nose. I am also getting un-ripened avocado and heavy potassium on the nose. The palate initially was a meaty vegetable. I also got a sweetness that was hard to discern between a strawberry cream cupcake and caramel. The finish is nice and oily with a return to the onion-y vegetal intro. It also has nice clay pot and hay notes on the end. Quite good. Loving the black label.

Zack Klamn

Zack Klamn

218 reviews
Rated 4 out of 5 stars3 months ago

Nose: Felt pen. Vanilla frosting. A pretty light nose.

Palate: Shades of a sweet and savory stir fry sauce (possibly ketjap manis). Very nice mouth feel (slick but not too viscous) and when I work it around I get some awesome icing sugar pops. Big smoke in the finish. White chocolate and oddly green onions in the aftertaste both which blend in with the lasting smoke.

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